Even though not an exact replica, a good lookalike nameplate could be drawn. The recreated design then to be implemented in relief. This should of course be brass (etching?), but noit having the chemicals and kit for etching some simpler methods were tried.
The Old English typeface is not an exact match for the originals. From browsing Marchant advertisiments of the period and some other publications however, the company itself was also not that strict on the exact typeface for the wordmark.
A while ago, had tried pressing soft paperboard into a mold to create a textured surface. This had worked well to re-create the missing sides of the pouch for a Golden Gem adding machine.
With the image flipped mirror-image, a mold was 3D printed. Half mm paperboard was soaked in hot water and then pressed against the mold. A clamp and bits of wood to distribute the force.
Experimenting with the 3D printing parameters/orientation and some sanding of the molds, the artefacts can be reduced. The cards are immediately fixated with spray-lacquer when they are taken out of the mold, dried. The paperboard is best placed on a curved surface (jam-jar) held in palce with masking tape. The lacquer permeates the paperboard, making a surprisingly stiff and strong part.
After first fixating, the parts are cut to size and the four riveting holes are punched out. As final make-believe step, they are given a brassy finish.
The results with this method were very crisp, however the relief fairly shallow. The photographs of genuine Marchant machines show that the lettering is quite deep. The paperboard is also prone to warping.
To try a different method to get deeper lettering, also direct 3D printing of the typeplate was tried. The part is printed flat and then placed over a curved surface (that jam-jar). With a hairdryer they are then softened and settled in the curve needed. A few variations were tested, with different printing parameters and thicknesses. The part then finished with a brassy finish.
These plastic direct-printed typeplates looked very similar to the originals in pictures found online.
A couple of these plates were made - these use almost no material, are very fast prints - and finished with different hues of 'brass'.
Some judging next to the genuinely brass dealer-plate to select a colour that is not too jarring on the machine.
Then fitted on the cover. Not with rivets, but with tiny hex-nuts and domed-bolts.
Very bright. It won't tarnish like the dealer-plate, so later it may be swapped for a darker fake-brass to stay in-range with the dealer-plate.
Another possible method could be to press thin brass sheet (possibly with paperboard backing) into the mold - that would give the correct material. Unsure if that'd give the desired depth of lettering, even with proper glowing of the brass. Perhaps something for a next project.
The Pony B may not work all that great, but it is a 'decorative' machine - on display for now :-)
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